Updated 23 October 2026 · By the artisanfirst | DREAMYWALLS design studio, Noida
Zardozi is raised embroidery made with metal threads, zari is the metal thread itself, aari is a hooked-needle chain stitch, kantha is a running stitch, dori is cord laid on fabric, and hand block print is colour stamped on with carved wooden blocks. These are the main Indian hand techniques you'll find on cushion covers and home textiles. This guide explains each one in plain words, how to tell hand work from machine work, why hand-done pieces cost more, and how to care for them, using the covers we make at artisanfirst | DREAMYWALLS in our Noida studio.
Quick answers
- What is zardozi? Raised, heavy embroidery made with metal threads, coils and sequins, worked by hand on a frame.
- Zari vs zardozi? Zari is the metallic thread; zardozi is a style of embroidery that uses zari and other metal pieces.
- Aari vs zardozi? Aari is a fine chain stitch made with a hooked needle; zardozi is heavier, raised metal-thread work.
- What is kantha? A running stitch from Bengal that creates a rippled, quilted texture.
- Bagru vs Sanganeri print? Both are Rajasthan block prints; Bagru uses earthy colours and mud resist, Sanganeri uses fine florals on a white base.
- How can I tell hand embroidery from machine? Look at the back: hand work has small knots and uneven stitch lengths; machine work is even and often backed with stiff fabric.
- Why do hand-done cushion covers cost more? One design can take 1 to 5 days and 2 to 5 artisans.
- How do I wash zari or zardozi? Dry clean only, and store flat in muslin cloth.
What is zardozi embroidery?
Zardozi is heavy, raised embroidery made by hand with metal-coloured threads, fine wire coils and sequins, stitched onto fabric stretched on a wooden frame. The name comes from Persian: "zar" means gold and "dozi" means embroidery. It was once used on royal clothing and tent hangings, and today it is the richest finish you'll see on festive cushions.
A guide to Banaras zardozi explains the materials: dabka (a tight spring-like coil), salma (a softer coil), sequins and beads, worked on a frame called a karchob. Lucknow zardozi received a GI registration in 2013. GI, or Geographical Indication, is a legal tag that links a craft to the region it comes from.
In our range, zardozi appears in the Velvet Luxe collection, worked on velvet.
What is the difference between zari and zardozi?
Zari is the material, a metallic thread; zardozi is the technique, a style of raised embroidery that uses zari and other metal pieces. Zari can also be woven into fabric (as in Banarasi saris) or used for lighter, flat embroidery. Zardozi is always hand-embroidered, heavier and more raised. A guide comparing zari and zardozi explains the difference in detail.
Today most zari is made with a metallic-coloured thread rather than real gold or silver. Our Mughal Garden collection combines zari with appliqué on cotton duck and cotton velvet.
What is the difference between aari and zardozi?
Aari is a fine chain stitch made with a hooked needle, a bit like a crochet hook, pushed through fabric on a frame; zardozi is raised metal-thread work stitched with a regular needle. Aari is faster and flatter and can be done with cotton, silk or zari thread. Zardozi is slower, heavier and sits higher on the fabric. Many pieces use both: aari for outlines and zardozi to fill.
What is kantha embroidery?
Kantha is a simple running stitch, done by hand in long rows, that gives fabric a soft, rippled, quilted look. It comes from Bengal, where women traditionally stitched old saris together into light quilts. The Ministry of Textiles' handicrafts page on nakshi kantha describes the craft; nakshi kantha, the patterned form, is GI-registered.
Our Classic Monochromes collection uses kantha with patchwork and French knots on cotton. Each design takes about 1 day and 2 artisans.
What is dori work?
Dori work is embroidery where a thin cord (dori) is laid on the fabric in a pattern and stitched down by hand with small stitches. It gives a raised, rope-like outline and looks especially soft on velvet. Our Romantic Vintage collection pairs dori with pearl work and quilting on polyester velvet; each design takes 1 to 3 days and 3 artisans.
What are bead work, French knots, appliqué and quilting?
These are four supporting hand techniques, often used together on one cushion cover.
Bead work
Bead work is glass or pearl beads stitched onto fabric one by one by hand. It adds shine and weight. Our TNT Beads collection is built around bead work, and the Earth Series uses bead embroidery as an accent.
French knots
A French knot is a tiny raised dot made by wrapping thread around the needle a few times before pushing it back through. Hundreds of them together create texture, like seeds or flower centres. We use them in the Classic Monochromes, Botanical Bloom and Earth Series collections.
Appliqué
Appliqué means cutting shapes from one fabric and stitching them onto another. It creates large, clean motifs with colour contrast. Our Mughal Garden collection uses appliqué with zari.
Quilting
Quilting is rows of stitching through two or more layers of fabric, giving a padded, raised pattern. We use it in Romantic Vintage and in Mughal Garden's cotton velvet designs.
What is hand block printing?
Hand block printing is stamping colour onto fabric with carved wooden blocks, one block for each colour, pressed by hand row after row. Small shifts between stamps are normal and are the sign of real hand work. Rajasthan is the best-known centre, with printing families called Chhipa.
Our Jaipur House collection is hand block printed on 100% cotton casement slub. Each design takes about 2 days and 4 artisans.
What is the difference between Bagru and Sanganeri block print?
Bagru print uses earthy colours (indigo, rust, black, mustard) on off-white or dyed backgrounds, often with mud resist; Sanganeri print uses fine, delicate florals on a white background. Both come from villages near Jaipur. Bagru hand block print became GI-registered in 2011, according to NABARD's GI product record for Bagru, and Sanganeri hand block print in 2010, as noted in a guide to Sanganeri print.
What is dabu printing?
Dabu is a mud-resist technique: a paste of mud, gum and lime is stamped onto fabric, which is then dyed. The covered parts stay undyed, leaving a soft, slightly cracked pattern. It is closely linked to Bagru.
What is ikat weave?
Ikat is a weave where the yarn is tie-dyed before weaving, so the pattern appears as the threads are woven. That is why ikat edges look softly blurred. Pochampally in Telangana is one of the best-known ikat centres. Our Ikat Weave collection, including the POCHAMPALLY cover, uses this woven pattern.
Screen print vs block print vs digital print: what's the difference?
Block print is stamped by hand with wooden blocks; screen print pushes ink through a mesh stencil, by hand or machine; digital print is printed by machine straight from a computer file, like an inkjet printer for fabric. Each has a place, and we use all three.
| Method | How it's done | Look | In our range |
|---|---|---|---|
| Hand block print | Carved wooden blocks, pressed by hand | Small shifts and colour variation; each piece slightly different | Jaipur House |
| Screen print | Ink pushed through a mesh screen, one colour at a time | Clean, even, flat colour; good for stripes and simple shapes | Printed Stripes |
| Digital print | Machine-printed from a digital file | Fine detail and many colours; very even | Botanical Bloom, Earth Series (as a base for hand embroidery) |
To be clear: Botanical Bloom and Earth Series start with a digitally printed base, then our artisans add hand embroidery on top. Botanical Bloom adds hand thread embroidery and French knots; Earth Series adds tufting, kantha, French knots or bead embroidery. We call these "hand-embroidered", not "fully handmade". The print gives the detail; the hand work gives the texture.
How can I tell hand embroidery from machine embroidery?
Turn the piece over: hand embroidery has small knots, loose ends and stitches of slightly different lengths on the back, while machine embroidery looks even and is often backed with a stiff, papery fabric. A needlework expert's comparison explains these signs in more detail.
In our own range, all adda work is done by hand, and so is the detailed work, such as the zardozi on CREST and the embroidery on our Earth Series. Some simpler embroidery designs are done on computer embroidery machines. If you want to know exactly how a particular design is made, ask us on WhatsApp.
Signs of hand work
- Back side: knots, thread jumps and small loose ends, not a stiff backing sheet.
- Stitch length: slightly uneven; machines repeat the exact same length.
- Repeats: motifs on a hand piece vary a little; on a machine piece they are identical.
- Thread density: machine work is often very tightly packed with a flat, shiny surface; hand work feels softer and more raised.
- Edges: hand satin stitch edges look a little wavy; machine edges look razor-straight.
- Block print: look for tiny gaps or overlaps where blocks meet, and slight colour changes.
Why do hand-embroidered and hand block printed cushion covers cost more?
They cost more because one design can take 1 to 5 days and 2 to 5 artisans, where a machine finishes the same area far faster. Here is the time each of our collections takes per design:
| Collection | Technique | Time per design | Artisans | Price |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Classic Monochromes | Kantha, patchwork, French knots | 1 day | 2 | ₹1,029–2,290 |
| Jaipur House | Hand block print | 2 days | 4 | ₹659–1,249 |
| Romantic Vintage | Dori, pearl work, quilting | 1–3 days | 3 | ₹1,319–2,490 |
| Earth Series | Digital print + tufting, kantha, French knots, beads | 5 days | 5 | ₹1,129–3,409 |
You also pay for skill that takes years to learn, and for a piece that is slightly different from every other. Is it worth it? If you want a cover that lasts many seasons and has visible texture, yes. If you want to change covers every few months on a tight budget, a screen-printed cover is a sensible choice. Our cushion cover size guide helps you choose sizes and mix designs.
How do I care for hand-embroidered and block printed cushion covers?
Most of our covers are dry clean only, with no bleach, and should be steamed or ironed on the reverse. The right care depends on the technique.
Zari, zardozi and bead work
Dry clean only. Store flat, wrapped in muslin cloth, away from damp, as the zari vs zardozi guide also advises. Don't fold sharply over metal work, and keep perfume and sprays away; they can dull the shine.
Hand block print
Natural and hand-applied colours can fade with sun and harsh washing. Keep covers out of strong direct sunlight, dry them in shade inside out, and avoid bleach. Some colour change over the years is normal and part of the look.
Velvet
Steam, don't iron directly. Brush the pile gently in one direction. A velvet cushion cover care guide has more tips.
Botanical Bloom
Dry clean the first wash, then hand wash gently in mild detergent.
Can I machine wash embroidered cushion covers?
We don't recommend it. A machine can pull threads, crush raised work and loosen beads. Follow the care on each product page.
How should I store festive cushion covers?
Store them clean and fully dry, flat in muslin, in a dry cupboard. In the monsoon, air them on a dry day.
Where are artisanfirst | DREAMYWALLS cushion covers made?
Our textiles are made in Noida. Adda work, hand embroidery and stitching are done in our own studio; printing and some simpler embroidery are done on machines by partner units in Noida. Adda work is embroidery done on a large wooden frame (adda) that holds the fabric tight, so artisans can work zardozi, aari and beads by hand. Read more on how we make our pieces and about our studio.
Browse every technique in our cushion collections and soft furnishings. Delivery is free across India, usually in 3–5 days, with cash on delivery and 7-day returns with free pickup (see our refund policy).
Still unsure?
Message us on WhatsApp (+91 92665 17772). We can send close-up photos of the embroidery or print, explain how a design is made, and help with care, sizes and fillers.
Sources
- Zari vs zardozi: Indian embroidery work explained
- What is zardozi? Banaras embroidery
- Lucknow zardozi gets GI registration
- Nakshi kantha — Office of the Development Commissioner (Handicrafts)
- Bagru hand block print — NABARD GI product details
- Sanganeri print: a guide to Rajasthan's floral art
- Hand embroidery vs machine embroidery: the difference
- How to wash velvet cushion covers